I met Flor, the receptionist, at 5 pm in the lobby. She was off work, her 7-year old neighbor girl by the hand and we went downstairs to have a beer. Flor insisted on buying and got the little girl a treat, too. She told me why she had offered to go with me to the bull fight.
See many familiar faces on the pilgrim trail today. We all greet each other with “Buen Camino”, meaning good path.
Met a new South Korean woman and young Japanese man.
At ten a.m., sit on sun on steps, sharing snacks with a young Spanish couple and the South Korean woman, of licorice, apple, nuts, cheese. The young Spaniard asks, “Can I marry you?” He thinks I am rich to have a month in Spain! Ha, Ha! Good thing his girlfriend cannot understand English.
Cover my blisters with blister pads. Wear my lighter WrightSocks. Feel good today.
Saw a rebuilt conical stone hut. It has a bench all around the inside and one small window, opposite the door. There are several ruins of these huts along the trail. Were they tombs, shelters for sheepherders or farmers?
A great battle was fought on a snall knoll along the trail. Roland, the Christian, killed the giant Muslim here, which marked the beginning of the demise of Islam here.
Pass lots of vineyards today with dark purple grapes and some light green ones.
Almonds falling to the ground from trees.
Lots of huge, furry caterpillars on the path.
Purple fall crocus.
Around a beautiful lake: Black ducks, fishermen, big, sucker-type fish visible from the bridge.
Stay at San Fernando Hotel, 35 Euros. I am not yet into the hostels.
Asked the receptionist about the bull fight poster ad I saw. Is it tonight and where is it?
Are you alone? She asks. Yes I am. Come at 5 pm and I will go with you to the bull right. It is very close.
Los Arcos to Logrono
15 miles, 7 am to 1 pm
I feel better today. Recognize people from yesterday.
Ate grapes from vineyard, a couple of ripe figs.
A bad was playing in a village.
Fields of olive trees, and big, gold and round baled hay.
Fig trees and bamboo in ditches.
Hills remind me of Wyoming, as they are dry.
Pilgrim hostal in Logrono. 3 Euros
Cloudy, breezy day, pleasant walking through rolling countryside.
Castle on hill. Moorish fountain.
Huge, round bales of golden hay.
Ripe, black grapes in vineyards along path.
Bamboo in ravines.
Pines, olive groves.
Chatted with English couple from Yorkshire again.
Stayed at Pension Mali, 35 Euros.
My feet ache and are blistered!
Wine in the main plaza in the afternoon sun.
Visited the Santa Maria Church.
Attended the Pilgrim mass at 8 pm.
Many people there, mostly older, and several other pilgrims.
The church was then illuminated. One of the most beautiful I have ever seen, with a gold altar piece and spectacular paintings. It is nice to see the works or art where they belong, in a church, instead of a museum.
Dinner with pilgrim Anna, a 30ish Spanish woman I met on the trail. 10Euros
Hilltown appears on the horizon, Maneru. It reminds me of Italy with the church in the middle, surrounded by homes with red tile roofs and vineyards with black grapes leading us to the village.
The path takes us directly through the town, as it was actually built to take care of pilgrims in the 1070´s. Narrow, winding streets and old buildings. Totally charming.
Stopped by a cafe and visited with an older couple from Yorkshire, England, in the sunshine.
Walked over a Roman road and a bridge built by the Romans.
Past two huge monasteries and a hermitage built to help pilgrims in 1060.
Visited with two Australian women from Tasmania.
Next to the medieval hermitage is a wine cellar with special offerings for Pilgrims, a fountain of both water the wine.
Had a little wine here, it was good. And about half a mile later found the most expensive hotel to stay in. I just could not continue on to the Pilgrim hostel…. One man was asleep on the bench at the wine fountain, another had a burro and stopped there, too.
Now that was a fun day.
Arrived in Pampalona about 10, though once the Basque capital Iruna. All signs are in both Spanish and Basque.
Walk into Pampalona along the river path, passing pens of horses, cattle and gardens.
Up into the huge fortress, across a moat, drawbridge to the cathedral and old, medieval buildings.
Find the Plaza de Toros, photograph Ernest Hemingway´s statue in front of it.
Stroll down the street where the bulls are run, there are photos of it in the shops.
Meet and walk with a couple from California and a woman from Denmark.
Mail my camping equipment home. It is something I will not use, campgrounds are hard to find, a little ways out of town, it rained one night, sometimes it is cold, it is too heavy, and so on. The accommodations of hostels and hotels are plentiful and that is fine.
Leave Pampalona through the university along the old fortress walls, into the countryside.
Sit on a bench on a hillside, sketching and counting four castles in the little villages.
At the Alto del Perdon pass is a metal sculpture of cutouts of pilgrims passing through the ages, starting with capes, donkeys, with dogs, and onto modern dress. There is also a large cross, as there is almost at every cross roads. Get a bicyclist to take my photo.
Fields of sunflowers, asparagus, beans, potatos and small gardens. Walk through small villages. Every one has a water fountain. The water is good and cold.
Stay in a nice hotel and watch the tributes in Spain and the USA to the September 11 victims. It is sad.
It is a cool, cloudy, breezy day. Perfect for walking. I love it.
*Mostly in shaded forsts and trails bordered with
holm oak, maples, holly, Scot pine, walnut trees.
*Pure pleasure of walking all day.
*Early morning mist as I walked down into the valley.
*Bought salami, cheese, bread, a straw sun hat with rhinestones and turquoise beads to replace the one blown away yesterday. Shopped in a tiny store in Burguete, where the older woman at the counter wrote down the prices on a piece of paper, added the total in her head, and gave it to me for a receipt.
*Staying in a monestery doromitory for pilgrims built hundreds of years ago.
*Walk to center of the plaza for the Pilgrim Menu dinner. Four Australian women invited me to join them, and later to come visit in Australia to play golf.
Oops, I misread the first walk from St. Jean Pied Pont, France into Spain. I was thinking the pass is 1,600 feet elevation. Not so. It is 1,600 cm and the ascent for the day is almost 4,000 feet. Then it is about 2,000 descent into Roncesvalles and 16 miles.
The plane trip from London to Biarritz, France, took an hour. Then a bus ride across town to catch the train to St. Jean Pied Pont. I explored Biarritz while waiting 2 hours for the train. Walked up to one castle to see another across the river. This charming old town is on a river near the ocean, and there are people surfing. Definitely a place to come back and stay a few days.
After 2 hour train ride, where I visited with a young French woman, Cecelia, and the pilgrims, at least 50 on the train, walked up to the reception building for Pilgrims. After receiving my Pilgrim passport it was 8 pm, most of the hostels were full and I was standing in the street wondering where I was going to sleep. A French woman took me with her to an old building down the street, motioned for me to stay, went up and got an old woman and they took me up to her sitting room. It had a sofa for me the sleep on. The price was 15 Euros. The older woman took her purse out of the desk drawer to get me change for my 20. Then put her purse back in the drawer.
The first woman took me by the arm down the hall to the bathroom, very nice and new. There was much chattering, none of which I understood, but said Decor and Qui. Then she kissed me on both cheeks and left. I went out for dinner, found Cecelia and two other young women from the train ride and had pizza with them. Cecelia kissed my cheecks goodbye and I have not seen her since.
The advice was to start the hike early, as it is 8 hours to cover the 16 miles to Roncesvalles, Spain, the first hotel or hostel or food.
Since I was on an earlier time from England, was excited and couldn´t sleep too long, I got up when the owl kept hooting. It was pitch black, no one was up and out I went. After finding my way across the river and out of town, where it was really dark, I put on my headlamp and putted up the hill and putted and putted. Two hours and there was lightening in the distance. Three hours and it was light enough to see without my lamp.
By now I am up into the common grazing area of the French Pyrenees. There are flocks of sheep herded down the mountain side to a small corral. They look like white water flowing down the steep green slope. Herds of blonde cattle, bands of 7 to 20 mares with foals roam freely. All animals have bells around their necks, so it is a beautiful sound.
The wind becomes more than stiff and straight into my face near the top, often making me stagger across the road. Even my trekking poles don´t hold me and they are so difficult to control, I attach them to my pack. For quite a ways, the path is tar and quite well marked with the sign of the shell, which is the Pilgrims symbol and the red and white bars which is the corresponding Grande Ronde trail across the country. I picked up first a couple of years ago in Geneva, Switzerland, walking 100 miles south into France on it.
I am the only one out, until 7 pm I pass a hostel and see people eating breakfast, so soon they will join me. By 8 am I see one man pass me, there are several behind him. Suddenly a van beeps me to move over, and it is filled with the people who were walking. They get a ride up to where the path goes from tar to trail near the top of the pass. My thoughts are distinctly unpilgrim-like toward them. I try to tell my self Everyone has their own journey. But, of course, mine is harder.
The mountains are well logged and an open view. It is misty and very windy. Finally over the pass, after passing some springs for water for Pilgrims and a big cross, the path heads straight down hill. The Romans put a road here and where there is solid rock, I can see the ruts from their wagons. And their roads typically go straight up and down, no matter how steep. Charlamagne also moved his troops through this pass.
About noon, in a light misting rain, I arrive in Roncesvalles, have soup and a cheese sandwich. There is a huge abbey built here to house the pilgrims with a great book shop for Pilgrims. I pick up a guide in English with history and strip maps which have a plastic pouch to hang around my neck so I can read the days itinerary, have an elevation chart and map of the towns. It is really helpful.
By now it is only 1 pm and there are many Pilgrims arriving to stay. I can´t face the walk being over, so keep going on down the trail through the woods. About 4 miles later in a small Basque village, I see a woman tending her flowers and it looks like she rents rooms. She does and so I stay with her. The building has beautiful wood stairs, floors, renovated bathroom and comfortable bedroom. What a nice find for the end of my first day on the El Camino. The restaurant down the street serves dinner and I am very happy.