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Sketchbook Diary, January 17 to 27, 2024. Sri Lanka

I was so very happy to unexpectedly find this guest house after a long, hot day of cycling.
Whenever I needed a boost, there was a tuk tuk driver offering a ride.
This is an important pilgrimage for the country.
This beach is five minutes from my small hotel.
Wonderful to see Amilya again.
Now I am in India!
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Adams Peak pilgrimage, Sri Lanka.

A major Buddhist pilgrimage is the 3,200 foot hike up Adams Peak. I started at 1:30 a.m., waiting until the pouring rain stopped. Because it was the weekend, there was a two hour wait standing in the crowd near the top, where it was packed with mostly local people, who have no personal space and jostle and push. There was a lovely sunrise, and I could only take a few photos. Mostly because police are there to forbid photos of the Buddha and the golden foot image that people worship.

I got back to my hotel at 11:00 am, whipped from the steep steps downhill. But I got a foot massage, recovered quickly and was happy to have done it. It gets really hot when the sun rises, so most people go at night, Bus loads of pilgrims arrive and depart all night, coming from Colombo, the capital.

A small statue at the top of Adams Peak.
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Buddha statutes in Sri Lanka

No, I didn’t take a photo of every Buddha statue, but here are just a sample of what I saw. The beauty is astounding.

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Sketchbook Diary, January 8 to 16, 2024. Sri Lanka

A reclining Buddha.
There is always something interesting around every corner.
Another ancient city atop the rock.
A megalithic cemetery (very old)
I wonder if Buddha would think
Of people worshipping his tooth.

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Cycling in Sri Lanka.

I’ve been headed up to the hill country for a few days now. It’s where the tea is grown. In 1846 James Taylor, from Scotland, brought coffee and tea plants here for commercial farming. The coffee plants died of disease but the tea plants flourished, and there are large tea plantations in the higher elevations, where it is wet and cool.

My lovely host family last night.
My road.
Terraced Rice paddies .
Houses on steep hillsides.
The dog didn’t get too close to the monitor lizard sunning itself in the road.
View down the valley I cycled up.
Plenty of goats around, some even stand in the road.
Road hazards, water buffaloes, coming around the corner.
Even an ambulance drove slowly around the herd without honking.
India flying squirrels, or fruit bats. Never a dull moment cycling in Sri Lanka.

India flying squirrels or fruit bats, in Kandy, Sri Lanka.

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Sketchbook Diary, December 29, 2023 to January 14, 2024.

Sri Lanka adventures.

My hostel is a five- minute walk from the beach and a restaurant there.
Cycling north out of the cities Colombo and Negombo. Followed a sign to a delightful small hotel.

Rice is drying on a bamboo mat along the road. See the big, black snake!

Under the Bodhi tree here is where Buddha received his enlightenment. No, I don’t know what that is.
Here the king became a follower of Buddha.
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Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka

When Kings ruled these central plains 800 years ago, huge buildings were erected. This is another Ancient City I cycled to.

Warning! But I only saw one elephant in the lake.
Ruins of a palace, now a playground for monkeys.
Similar temples are found in Thailand.
Reclining Buddha, just after death but the eyes have not yet closed. Called pariniveria state,

Gal Vihara Buddha statues are entirely carved from the same granite hillside, about 800 years ago. It was astonishing to be there.

The wild elephant is on the right in the lake.
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Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

My cycle goal is to go to the Ancient Cities. They are in the middle of the country, so only a day or two apart on a bicycle. There are direct highways between them, designated as A highways. As you might guess, these carry a lot of traffic. So I try to stick to the less busy, and less direct B roads. These usually have a shoulder good for cycling or walking. Then there the very back roads with just local traffic, usually only one and a half lanes wide and very windy. With the occasional big local bus, a garbage truck and many scooters it can still be interesting! But these roads give me a chance to look at the beautiful countryside. Plus there are often small shops and Hole-in-the-Wall simple cafes with tea and spicy pastries. And locals who just stare at me, an old white person on a bicycle!

The bird’s eye view of Sigiriya.
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Elephants in Sri Lanka.

As I cycle through Sri Lanka, there are posted signs about wild elephants and I have seen droppings, unmistakably elephant-size, and footprints on a sandy road. But today a man assured me they only come out to attack people at night. This one is opposite my small homestay for the night. Which is a room in a home with home-cooked meals. It’s lovely and the hostess is so welcoming.

The next day I was invited to a dance program of my hostess’s 11-year old daughter. First, I was asked to welcome the local government leaders, then seated in the front row. A Buddha monk gave a 15- minute speech about Buddha or something along that line. I include the video, just so you can listen to his voice.

Greeting a government leader.
Traditional Sri Lankan dance.

Then the Manager of the local government gave a 20-minute speech. Of which this was a fraction.

Then the little ones danced.
Beautiful traditional sari.
She was clearly the most important official there.

Then another dance.

Traditional dance program, same dancers.

After the dancers, they were all given gifts as were the government people. I was asked to help give gifts, too. The children kneel on the cement floor and touch the floor in front of your feet. Amazing! Oh and when the Buddhist monk entered and sat down I was honored, along with the government officials, to go bow before him. I didn’t manage the full knees on the cement but bowed low as I could. Because I was honored just to be there.

After all the dancing and three government officials gave speeches there was a town hall-type meeting. The government people sat behind a desk at the front and people asked questions. It seemed like it was going on for a time, so my hostess suggested I needn’t stay and I left. What a wonderful cultural experience!

My hostess and her daughter.
This all happened because I stopped at this sign along the road, looking for a place to stay.
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Mama monkeys

While enjoying tea at a street side bakery, a troop of monkeys passed overhead. The plethora of street dogs keep them off the ground, mostly.

Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka.

Cycling onto Mihnitale, about 12 miles from Anuradhapura, I came across this shrine tucked into a nearby neighborhood .